Author Emily Simpsons ◦
With its many names… The Heart of Australia, The Red Centre, The Arid Centre, The Dead Centre… this region is like a faceted precious gemstone, a place also known as Central Australia, that reflects aspects of all these names and more. Alice Springs and Uluṟu are recognised as being in the heart of Australia, with neither really being the geographic centre of Australia, but for those planning to visit, it is the main transport hub for this region of Australia… the beating heart.
Having once visited Central Australia when I was a young backpacker, it hasn’t changed much, except for maybe Alice, which has a few more people these days. Of course during the main tourist seasons which can be any time from March through to November, it can be extremely busy according to some locals, although compared to Sydney traffic, it is really nothing to worry about (unless of course you are a local).
So what was it like to revisit? Well being older, and hopefully a bit wiser, I know that I have enjoyed it more the second time round. My partner, of course had never been here before, and certainly had preconceived notions of what to except… some vast flattish inland desert type places with a rock called ‘Ayers Rock’, although these days, it is better known by its official name of ‘Uluṟu’. Anyone who has been to Alice Springs, will know that the region is not flat, being located where the East and West MacDonnell Ranges meet.
A great view of the meeting of the ranges, where east meets west (known as Heavitree Gap), is from Untyeyetwelye / Anzac Hill, where you can learn about ‘The Corkwood Story’. Untyeyetwelye has association with a rock in the Todd River bed that is linked to the ‘Caterpillar Dreaming’ (the ancestral beings that include three species of caterpillars), the wild dog puppies and the journey of two sisters whose dreaming trail extend some 100’s of kilometres from South Australia.
Having flown into Uluṟu (located in the Uluṟu and Kata Tjuṯa National Park), we had booked onto a coach tour. There are a number of choices from the 45 seater coach to the smaller operators, that included the sunrise and sunset at Uluṟu, and the equally spectacular Kata Tjuṯa (formerly ‘The Olgas’). Uluṟu still holds that ‘spiritual allure’ and not surprisingly, touches a number of people deeply.
At the Uluṟu sunset spot, we had a great tip from our tour guide. He said to set our camera up and take the first photo, just before the sun starts setting. Then every four minutes, take another photo. The reason being is that your eyes become accustomed to the fading light, but when you look back at your photos, the changes become more apparent.
Of course the lucky ones may get some cloud cover to heighten the dramatic effects of the setting sun. If you are there during those rare occasion when it rains, you may get to see the rock turn almost black. We were privileged to see Uluṟu during a sun shower and the rock took on a silvery sheen and if you really are lucky, a rainbow.
For those who can afford the time, there are a number of walks around Uluṟu and the Cultural Centre. We did observed the request by the local Anangu community ‘not to climb Uluṟu’, the reasons being outlined not only in the local brochures, but also at the Cultural Centre (since I originally wrote this blog, the climb is no longer permitted).
There is of course the option to fly over the magnificent landscape, providing a different perspective over the land, that is important to many people.
Another must, is to take the time to do either one or both walks at Kata Tjuṯa.
Visitors to the region will also see that Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa National Park is a rich diversity of flora and fauna, some of which are only seen during and after uniqe weather events such as rain. This is where we saw our first upside-down plant and the gorgeous Central-netted Dragon.
In the late morning the next day, we were on the coach to Kings Canyon (located in the Watarrka National Park) and enjoying the surprising depth of flora and fauna here as well. There is the Desert Oaks (that are found throughout this region and have special spiritual significance to the different tribes). The juvenile trees have an intersting form in that they look like giant feather dusters. Our ever observant tour guide, did an impromptu stop, and scooped up (or should I say rescued) a ‘Thorny Devil’ from off the road, one of the many non human residents in the region. After much admiration and oohs and aahs… the Thorny Devil was safely relocated off the road into safety.
At Kings Canyon our tour had the choice of two walks, with the ‘Rim Walk’ starting at sunrise being a spectacular way to soak up the beauty of the region. We stayed overnight in the Resort, although for those on a budget there are camping and lodge facilities. A tip for unwary travellers, don’t leave your boots outside your cabin doors or tent, as for some reason the local wild dingoes enjoy making off with them during the night.
Things to see on the walk include the sheer smooth canyon wall, the ‘Lost City’ (a series of weathered rock buttresses), the fossilised prehistoric ripples (this area was once under the sea), the views of the magnificent sandstone domes and the cool sanctuary of the ‘Garden of Eden“.
If you are the first group on the Rim Walk, andyou walk quietly, you may catch a glimpse of some wildlife fauna, such as the Perentie, Ring-tailed Dragon, and Spinifex Pigeon. During periods of rain and wet weather, the lucky tourist might catch sight of the Centralian Tree Frog and the Desert Tree Frog, which despite the name, is not necessarily found in trees. The one we saw were on the steps down into the Garden of Eden. Of course, Euros and Dingoes have been seen up on top of Kings Canyon, but remember, wildlife tends to take shelter during the hottest part of the day, especially during summer when temperatures can reach over 40 degrees. There is of course, the magnificent Watarrka National Park flora, including Bush Tomato, Butterfly Bush, Holly Grevillea, MacDonnell Ranges Cycad, and Striped Mint Bush (just to name a few).
For those planning the Rim Walk, be warned that the start of the walk is up a steep incline. Once up, the walk is fairly easy with steps down into the Garden of Eden. During the warmer months, make sure you take plenty of water, as is the case where-ever you travel in Central Australia.
After the walk, our group headed back to the resort for a light lunch, before our coach took us to our next destination Alice Springs. Keep a lookout for some of the wildlife that share the road and can sometimes be seen as you drive past.
For those thinking of heading here, and maybe staying for 2 or 3 weeks, make Alice Springs your base. If you have limited time, fly in to ‘The Rock’ and take a tour of Uluṟu, Kata Tjuṯa and Kings Canyon, these iconic locations are well worth it. Of course it is not necessarily cheap to eat, drink and stay at these places. Whilst both Uluṟu and Kings Canyon offering some choices in the type of accommodation and price range (for some travellers it may be cheaper to travel outside of the main tourist seasons). For those not wanting to stay at the main resort, you also have a choice of Curtin Springs (for those visiting Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa National Park) and Kings Canyon Wilderness Lodge (for those visiting Watarrka National Park).
We found the coach tours a great way to get around, with choices between the large tour companies and some of the smaller operators.
For those basing themselves in Alice Springs, it is important to note that Uluṟu and Kings Canyon is not just down the road. It was funny to hear the tour guide regale us with some of the stories of how some visitors to the region haven’t a clue about the vast distances between places. There was a Japanese tourist who wanted to book a room in Sydney with a view of Uluṟu, and there are plenty of tourists who think they can do Alice Springs to Uluṟu, Kata Tjuṯa and Kings Canyon in one day.
Addendum: we have had the opportunity to visit Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa National Park and Watarrka National Park a number of times over the years, experiencing the different seasons and weather conditions… and each time it was amazing and an adventure.
